Fichtel Mountains

Irish–Danish–German Heritage

Introduction | Highest peaks | Pictures | Song of the Fichtel Mountains | Reference list

Introduction

[Image: Germanic Gothic script; Text: Fichtelgebirge (Fichtel Mountains)]

The Fichtel Mountains (Fichtelgebirge) are a range of low mountains in northeastern Bavaria. They lie in Upper Franconia and Upper Palatinate administrative regions by the border with the Czech Republic.

Relevant families:

Barthmann [Barthman]
Strößenreuther

[Image: Mountains and valley] — Fichtel Mountains

The Fichtel Mountains are thought to be named for the spruce (Fichte) trees on them (Braunfels 1844, (PDF) 12; Encyclopædia Britannica online, “Fichtel Hills”).

The range forms a horseshoe shape with the two ends pointing northeast toward the border with the Czech Republic (once Bohemia), as shown in the maps below:

[Image: Map of Fichtel Mountains] — Map of Fichtel Mountains

Interactive map of the Fichtel Mountains in Bavaria, Germany

[Image: Close-up of map of Fichtel Mountains] — Map including Fichtel Mountains area, 1322

The except below comes from a travelogue of a trip through northern Bavaria by British author Charles Tylor (1816–1902) in the summer of 1852:

[Image: Horse-drawn wagon with mountains in background] — Mountain Waggon on the Schneeberg.

The Fichtel-Gebirge

The Fichtel-Gebirge may be described as a mountain-mass of considerable extent, in which a number of dome-shaped hills rest on a base, or table-land, 1700 feet higher than the sea-level. These eminences are arranged along the axis of the mass, from south-west to north-east; and the whole mass is furrowed on all sides by narrow valleys and glens. The nucleus of the mountains consists of granite, gneiss, and mica-slate; but on the north-west are extensive beds of clay-slate and grauwacke. The region produces iron, vitriol, sulphur, copper, lead, and marble.[^a]

The Schneeberg, as has been said, is the highest of the Pine Mountains.[^b] It is usually ascended on foot; but it was important to some of us to be spared as much as possible the exertion of walking. […] A light farm waggon [see image above] was therefore engaged by the landlord as the most eligible means of transport, consisting of two or three planks laid upon the axle-trees, and stakes slanting outwards on each side, connected by rails; the whole forming a sort of long basket, very strong and pliable, and indeed the only kind capable of being dragged up the rugged side of the mountain. Upon the rails of this primitive carriage two seats were strapped one before the other, which by having free play helped to overcome the rough motion produced by the absence of springs. It is in equipages thus furnished, that the German peasant may be seen on holidays and fête days, driving his family on a rural jaunt of pleasure. […]

The only part of the ascent at all difficult is the crown of the hill, where the help of a guide is of service amongst the patches of bog and over the masses of granite separated by fissures and covered with a cushion of moss and fern.

[…]

Snow lies on the Schneeberg eight months of the year, and the guide informed us that this year he had seen it a foot deep on the twenty-eighth of the fifth month. […]

The mountain, like the others of this range, is of granite. Its roots are covered with grass, loose stones and sand. Above these is the forest of beech and other trees, which are exchanged still higher for firs, whilst the head is bare, or only capped with moss, the growth of which is favored by the moisture of the clouds.

The following 1844 passage describes the Fichtel Mountains region, including climate:

The Fichtel Mountains, Kingdom of Bavaria, 1844
Source: Excerpted from Braunfels 1844, (PDF) 12–13; brackets and footnotes added, translation by IrishDanishGermanHeritage; italics and punctuation in the original. ^aThe modern longitude for the Fichtel Mountains is not around 30° east longitude but around 12° east longitude. The 1844-era longitude didn’t use the modern prime meridian through Greenwich, England (official in 1884) but the Ferro prime meridian, now around 18° west longitude, of ancient Greco-Egyptian geographer Ptolemy (ca. 100 ce–ca. 170 ce). The Ferro prime meridian passes through Ferro (El Hierro, Canary Islands), off the northwest coast of Africa. The modern 50° North, 12° East is in the Fichtel Mountains of Bavaria (Google Map), whereas the modern 50° North, 30° East is in Ukraine (Google Map). ^bSchneeberg’s 3,221 French royal feet (French: pied du roi; German: Pariser Fuß) = 1,046.31 meters = 3,432.78 feet. Schneeberg is now measured at 1,051 m = 3,448 ft. Ochsenkopf’s 3,122 French royal ft = 1,014.15 m = 3,327.27 ft. Ochsenkopf is now measured at 1,024 m = 3,360 ft. ^c32 degrees Réaumur = 40 degrees Celsius = 104 degrees Fahrenheit, and -26°R = -32.5°C = -26.5°F.
English translation		The Fichtel Mountains. The whole mountain range gets its name from the spruce forests that cover its peaks. At 50° north latitude and 30° east longitude [sic^a], quite equally remote from all of the borders of Germany, it extends from west-southwest to east-northeast, and in its middle section it raises as the highest peaks: Schneeberg (3,221 French royal feet) and Ochsenkopf (3,122 French royal feet), which are only separated because of the Main river valley.[^b] An expanse of about forty square miles [103.6 sq km] in all, it is only clearly delimited from the east, the southeast and the southwest. In the northwest, on the other hand, it borders on the Thuringian Forest, separated from it only because of the valley of the Rodach river; to the northeast it is connected with the Ore Mountains; to the east the individual features of the Bohemian Forest disappear near its foothills. The two highest mountain chains (the middle one and the Waldstein) form a granite complex, around which gneiss and mica schist settle themselves; toward the north it leans against the transitional Thuringian Highlands and toward the south and west, against younger secondary formations. Deposits of quartz, lime, and serpentine appear at various points; diabase [an igneous rock] is found in all of its forms; basalt occasionally forms itself into cone-like hilltops. About 30 mineral springs can be counted in the vicinity of our mountain range. Among these only a few have gained a reputation in other districts: Alexanderbad of Sichersreut near Wunsiedel, Stahlbad of Wiesau, and the springs of Untersteben. A harsh sky arches over the Fichtel Mountains; the conditions of cold and warm weather are determined not only by the higher or lower altitude of the individual points but also by their location toward the south or north, and by the prevailing pull of the winds. Snow falls very early, not in flakes but in tiny granules, which get through the narrowest cracks in the houses, and it covers mountains and valleys with colossal heaps throughout seven months. But once everything is thoroughly covered in snow, in order to protect the smooth toboggan runs, the roads of trade (trade that moves intensively and merrily on the mountains) become, in the midst of the wondrous beauty, as someone in paralysis from sublime nature. There the icy hilltops sparkle through the blackish green of the spruce forest, and, in the flutter of snow, rainbows extend their seven colors in the sky. But through the lovely winter landscape, unbearable storms often rage from the north and east, and in their wake a deadly frost predominates for months. The sunniest days of spring not uncommonly suffer from such storms; even in summer they occasionally waft through the valleys and become pernicious for the more delicate plants. In 1809 the inhabitants of Bischofsgrün had to perform the hay harvest with gloves on. Even in the hot summer the dry fog presses on mountain and valley. There are truly fine days mostly only throughout August and September, and then the heat becomes just as excessive as the cold had been before. There have been years where the highest reading on the thermometer was nearly 32° Réaumur and in comparison the lowest was 26° below zero.[^c] Despite this great alternation, despite the mist that rises out of forest and marsh, despite the cool nights, which are not absent even in August, the air is clean and healthful and beneficial to the inhabitants. Age not uncommonly climbs to seventy and eighty years old, and elderly men work in sprightliness right up to their end.

German original		Das Fichtelgebirge. Das ganze Gebirge hat seinen Namen von den Fichtenwäldern, die seine Gipfel bedecken. Unter dem fünfzigsten Grade nördlicher Breite, und dem dreissigsten östlicher Länge [sic^a], von allen Gränzen Deutschlands ziemlich gleich entfernt, zieht es sich von Westsüdwest nach Ostnordosten hin, und erhebt in seiner Mittelgruppe als höchste Spitzen den Schneeberg (3221 Pariser Fuss,) und den Ochsenkopf (3122 Pariser Fuss), die nur durch das Mainthal geschieden werden.[^b] Eine Ausdehnung von beiläufig vierzig Quadratmeilen umfassend, ist es nur gegen Osten, Südosten und Südwesten deutlich abgegränzt. Im Nordwesten hingegen stösst es an den Thüringer Wald, von diesem nur durch das Thal der Rodach geschieden; gegen Nordosten hängt es mit dem Erzgebirge zusammen; gegen Osten verlaufen sich bis zu seinen Vorbergen heran einzelne Züge des Böhmerwaldes. Die beiden höchsten Bergketten, (die mittlere und die Waldsteiner,) bilden einen Granitzug, an den sich ringsum Gneis und Glimmerschiefer lagert; nach Norden lehnt sich ein Uebergangs-Schiefergebirge an, nach Süden und Westen jüngere Flözgebilde. Lager von Quartz, Kalk und Serpentin erscheinen an verschiedenen Punkten; Grünstein findet sich in all seinen Gestaltungen; der Basalt formt sich zuweilen zu kegelähnlichen Kuppen. Gegen dreissig Mineralquellen zählt man im Umkreis unseres Gebirgs. Unter diesen haben in weiteren Kreisen nur wenige einen Ruf gewonnen: das Alexanderbad zu Sichersreut bei Wunsiedel, das Stahlbad zu Wiesau, und die Quellen zu Untersteben. Ein rauher Himmel wölbt sich über dem Fichtelgebirg; allein die Verhältnisse der Kälte und Wärme werden nicht sowohl von der grösseren oder geringeren Höhe der einzelnen Punkte, als vielmehr von deren Lage gegen Süd oder Norden, und vom herrschenden Zug der Winde bestimmt. Früh schon fällt der Schnee, nicht in Flocken, sondern in kleinen Körnchen, die durch die engsten Spalten der Häuser dringen; und er bedeckt Gebirg und Thäler mit gewaltigen Massen sieben Monate hindurch. Doch wenn einmal Alles tüchtig verschneit ist, werden die glatten Schlittenbahnen zu sichern Landstrassen des Verkehrs, der sich lebhaft und munter an den Bergen hin bewegt, mitten in der wunderbaren Schöne einer in ihrer Erstarrung erhabenen Natur. Da blitzen durch das schwärzliche Grün der Fichtenwaldung die eisigen Kuppen, und im Rieseln des Schnees ziehen Regenbogen ihre sieben Farben am Himmel hin. Aber durch die reizende Winterlandschaft toben häufig von Norden und Osten her unerträgliche Stürme; und in ihrem Geleite herrst mondenlang ein tödlicher Frost. Die sonnigsten Tage des Frühlings leiden nicht selten an solchen Stürmen; selbst im Sommer durchwehen sie zuweilen die Thäler, und werden den zärteren Pflanzen verderblich. Im Jahre 1809 mussten die Bewohner von Bischofsgrün die Heuernte mit Handschuhen verrichten. Selbst im heissen Sommer drückt her Höhenrauch auf Berg und Thal. Wahrhaft schöne Tage hat man meist nur den August und September hindurch; und alsdann wird die Hitze eben so übermässig, als es vorher die Kälte war. Man hat Jahre gehabt, wo der höchste Stand des Thermometers beinahe 32 Grad R., der tiefste dagegen 26 unter Null war.[^c] Trotz dieses grossen Wechsels, trotz der aus Wald und Moorgrund aufsteigenden Nebel, trotz der kühlen Nächte, die selbst im August nicht fehlen, ist die Luft rein und gesund, und den Bewohnern zuträglich. Das Lebensalter steigt nicht selten auf siebzig und achtzig Jahre; und die Greise arbeiten in Rüstigkeit bis an ihr Ende.

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Higest peaks

The three highest peaks of the Fichtel Mountains are all in the western, horseshoe-center area:

Schneeberg (3,448 feet / 1,051 meters)
Ochsenkopf (3,360 ft / 1,024 m)
Nußhardt (3,189 ft / 972 m)

In Wunsiedel administrative district, Birk village is northeast of the peaks of Schneeberg and then Ochsenkopf in a line and north-northeast of the peak of Nußhardt. Vordorf village is east of the peak of Schneeberg and northeast of the peaks of Nußhardt and then Ochsenkopf in a line.

[Image: People and traditional house beneath mountains] — Der Schneeberg und Ochsenkopf. Im Fichtelgebirg [The Schneeberg and Ochsenkopf. In the Fichtel Mountains, *1844*].

[Image: Houses beneath mountains] — Schneeberg and Ochsenkopf mountains, 2010

[Image: Mountain and snow-covered lowland] — Schneeberg (“snow mountain”) with some snow

[Image: Mountain and lowland] — Schneeberg (“snow mountain”) without snow

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Pictures

Song of the Fichtel Mountains

The following lyrics are from an 1897 song, an ode to the Fichtel Mountains region by Isaak Eckardt (1845–1914):

“*Das Fichtelgebirgslied*” (“Song of the Fichtel Mountains”)
Sources: Reprinted from Isaak Eckardt, “Das Fichtelgebirgslied” [Song of the Fichtel Mountains], 1897 Das Fichtelgebirgslied, Fichtelgebirge.net [with sheet music and midi sound clip; site in German] Fichtelgebirgslied, Ortsgruppe Waldershof e.V. im Fichtelgebirgsverein e.V. [site in German] Translation by IrishDanishGermanHeritage. Note: German u. = und ‘and’.
English translation		Song of the Fichtel Mountains Do you know the mountains in Germany’s heart, lain in a circle, covered so richly with green forests? The breezes purr: “Fichtel Mountains they are called!” It is my beloved homeland. “Fichtel Mountains they are called!” It is my beloved homeland. Do you know the rivers, those from here dispatched as heralds on all four winds? To invite everyone that is outside— Come here to me swiftly! “The Saale, the Ohře, the Naab, and the Main!” Their call shall welcome me. “The Saale, the Ohře, the Naab, and the Main!” Their call shall welcome me. Fichtel Mountains, o you beautiful woodland, you are the dearest of all to me; in your shadow at the murmuring brook, there I can be so satisfied. I would love to see again your delightful heights always and evermore! I would love to see again your delightful heights always and evermore!

German original		Das Fichtelgebirgslied Kennst du die Berge in Deutschlands Herz, gelagert rings im Kreise, mit grünen Wäldern so reich bedeckt? Die Lüfte säuselns leise: „Fichtelgebirg sind sie genannt!“ Es ist mein liebes Heimatland. „Fichtelgebirg sind sie genannt!“ Es ist mein liebes Heimatland. Kennst du die Flüsse, die hier ausgehn als Boten in alle vier Winde? Zu laden alle, die draußen stehn— Kommt her zu mir geschwinde! „Die Saale, die Eger, die Nab u. der Main!“ Ihr Ruf soll mir willkommen sein. „Die Saale, die Eger, die Nab u. der Main!“ Ihr Ruf soll mir willkommen sein. Fichtelgebirg, o du schöner Wald, du bist mir der liebste von allen; in deinem Schatten am rauschenden Bach, da kann es mir wohl gefallen. Möcht ich doch deine lieblichen Höhn immer u. immerdar wiedersehn! Möcht ich doch deine lieblichen Höhn immer u. immerdar wiedersehn!

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Reference list

Baedeker, Karl. 1895. Southern Germany, Including Wurtemberg and Bavaria: Handbook for Travellers. 8th rev. ed. Leipzig, Germany: Karl Baedeker, https://books.google.com/books?id=hOMNAAAAYAAJ.
Braunfels, Ludwig. 1844. Die Mainufer und ihre nächsten Umgebungen [The Riverbank of the Main and Its Nearest Surroundings]. Würzburg, Germany: C. Etlinger’schen Verlagsbuchhandlung [C. Etlinger’s Publishing Company], http://access.bl.uk/item/pdf/lsidyv369e3e0b.
Encyclopædia Britannica online, “Fichtel Hills.”
Fichtelgebirge.net, http://www.fichtelgebirge.net/ [site in German].
Gradl, Heinrich. 1893. Geschichte des Egerlandes (Bis 1437) [History of the Eger Region (To 1437)]. Prague, Czech Republic: H. Dominicus (Theodor Gruß), https://books.google.com/books?id=K4JDAAAAYAAJ.
Ortsgruppe Waldershof e.V. im Fichtelgebirgsverein e.V. [Waldershof Chapter, registered association, of the Fichtel Mountains Club, registered association], http://www.fgv-waldershof.de/ [site in German].
Tylor, Charles. 1852. A Historical Tour in Franconia, In the Summer of 1852. Brighton, England: Robert Folthorp, http://books.google.com/books?id=BFsBAAAAQAAJ.

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Introduction

The Fichtel-Gebirge

Higest peaks

Pictures

Northern Fichtel Mountains

Western Fichtel Mountains

Southern Fichtel Mountains

Song of the Fichtel Mountains

Reference list